Carport renovation on a tight budget

Hello friends! I hope you are having a spectacular 2016 and that you believe, as I do, that this year will be your¬†best.year.EVER! ūüôā

At the moment, I’m still neck deep in the house flip. This is the “messy middle” part, which means I’ve got more work ahead than what’s behind, and I’m feeling tired and overwhelmed. But … I am forging ahead one day at a time, focusing on the vision in my head and that glorious day when I’ll have an open house for all my family, friends, neighbors and curious passersby. That day, I know all the blood, sweat and tears that have gone into this project will be worth it! I am looking forward to that moment more than you can imagine. ūüôā

In the meantime, I wanted to take a minute and show you the work I’ve completed in the carport of the flip house. This was one area where¬†I really had to put the squeeze on the budget. In other words, I had to get really creative about what I could do to freshen up the space without changing it structurally or spending a bunch of money.

Let’s take a look at the “before,” shall we?

Side-door-before-2

Carport-beforeCarport-ceiling-beforeI started by emptying out the junk, scrubbing the siding, cleaning up the entrance, and scraping off any loose paint from the ceiling.

Then primer and paint became my BFFs for about 4 days.

To get¬†good stain coverage on the ceiling and walls, I applied¬†a thick coat of Zinsser¬ģ Cover Stain¬ģ¬†Oil-Base Primer. When I suspect¬†I may have issues with water stains or wood knots bleeding through the¬†paint, I don’t mess around with anything else to try and hide them. I use this primer to knock out the problem with one coat. Period. In the past, I’ve used¬†water-based primers because, well, I prefer the ease of soap and water cleanup. But there is just no substitute for a good oil or shellac-based primer for hiding stains. Cover Stain is my absolute, hands-down, all-time favorite for this purpose, especially for exterior applications. It’s quite affordable, too, at about $20 a gallon, and it saves¬†work in the end.

After priming, I finished off with a thick coat of Rust-Oleum¬ģ 2x One Coat Solid Stain (in white).*

For the floor, I used¬†Rust-Oleum¬ģ EPOXYSHIELD¬ģ Concrete Floor Paint in Armor Gray Satin. This product goes on smoothly¬†and quickly and I think the color is just gorgeous. I got the entire first coat rolled on in less than an hour.

EpoxyShield

via Rust-Oleum

I would definitely recommend when using this product that you have dry weather in the forecast and an ambient temperature above 50 F. I’ve got a few spots to touch up because we got an unexpected rain shower and it kept the paint from adhering properly.

Between the white walls and ceiling and the newly painted floor, this space now looks fresh and bright.

Carport-after-low-resSide-door-after

I also removed the broken ceiling light and replaced it with this inexpensive fixture. I think it ties in well with the front porch light.

Carport light after

What do you think of this budget-friendly transformation?

Before-and-after-carport

If you’re curious about what the inside of the house looks like right now, check out this video I made and be sure to enter to win a $50 Duluth Trading Company gift card, too.

Later this week, I will be sharing the finished downstairs bathroom. I am so excited because I think it looks amazing! Stay tuned.

Special thanks to Rust-Oleum for providing, at my request, the white solid stain and gray floor paint I needed to complete this project. As always, all opinions are 100 percent mine. 

*Affiliate link provided for your convenience

DIY beadboard shaker peg coat rack

I am thrilled to report I am done with my beadboard shaker peg coat rack! I am so proud of this project because I did it all.by.myself without asking anyone for advice or help. AND I used scrap lumber for most of the build. Plus I learned how to use a new saw. Yesss! 

Beadboard-shaker-peg-coat-rack

This two-tiered coat rack is super functional for our family because it has¬†a lower rack that is within reach of the kids, an upper rack for adults, and tons of pegs for all our coats. Plus it’s located in our garage right where we enter our home, which is really convenient.

CU-shaker-peg-coat-rack

Below are step-by-step instructions for how to build your own two-tiered beadboard shaker peg coat rack.

Step 1: Start by adding a swath of beadboard wallpaper on the wall that is the width and height of your project. (Tip: Be sure to place your wallpaper so the framing boards will overlap the edges slightly, preventing the seams from showing.)

Beadboard-wallpaper

Step 2: Install two shaker peg coat racks over the wallpaper Рa higher one for adults and a lower one for the kids. I ordered mine very inexpensively from this Etsy shop. (Tip: Be sure to screw your racks into studs, so they will support the weight of a lot of coats.)

Step 3: Attach boards on the left and right sides of the coat racks. Attach a bottom board to serve as the baseboard. I used leftover 1×3-inch pine boards for this, screwing them into wall studs. (Tip: A counter-sink drill bit pushes screws slightly below the surface of the wood, allowing for easy coverage with filler¬†and paint.)

Garage-pegboard-coat-rack

Step 4: Rip a piece of scrap plywood for¬†both the top shelf and the board above the top coat rack. I used my new favorite tool to do this, the¬†Ryobi¬ģ 10-inch portable table saw.¬†I’m happy to report no fingers were lost in the process. ūüôā

Using-Ryobi-table-saw

Step 5: Make your own shelf brackets out of the remainder of the plywood. I cut mine out on my¬†miter saw. I attached the¬†brackets using screws, but there is probably a better way. ūüėČ

Plywood-corbel

Step 6: Use a brad nailer to attach a piece of window/door casing below the top shelf and to attach the top shelf to the brackets and back board.

Step 7: To hide the unsightly, raw edges of the plywood (and the screws in the shelf brackets), iron on a strip of birch veneer.

Iron-on-birch-veneer

Birch-veneer-over-plywood

Step 8: Sand the rough spots, caulk the holes, and prime and paint.

I used my favorite Purdy¬ģ brushes* to prime and paint all the raw wood, paying particular attention to the knots. Pine knots can bleed through paint, so be sure to prime these areas very well before painting.

Purdy-paintbrushes

(Tip: A quality paint brush can make ALL THE DIFFERENCE when cutting in around edges, helping paint glide on smoothly and providing a straighter line.)

After priming and painting the boards, I taped off the whole project and spray painted it the same color as our window and door trim. I used my beloved HomeRight¬ģ Finish Max sprayer¬†to do this. Enter to win your own here.

Taping-off-for-sprayer

HomeRight-FinishMax

Done! A flawless paint finish on my new coat rack.

CU-beadboard-shaker-peg-coat-rack

Beadboard-peg-coat-rack

What do you think of the results?

* Affiliate links provided in this post for your convenience. 

Special thanks to Ryobi and Purdy for providing, at my request, the table saw and paint brushes needed to complete this project. 

Beadboard shaker peg coat rack progress

If you didn’t catch the original post on this project, I’ve been building a mega,¬†coat-rack-of-all-coat-racks in our garage. My goal is to add some serious storage for all our jackets, backpacks, etc., considering we have absolutely zero closets on our ground floor.

I started by adding a swath of beadboard wallpaper on the wall next to our garage entrance.

Beadboard-wallpaper

Next, I installed two inexpensive shaker peg coat racks over the wallpaper – a higher one for adults and a lower one for the kids – that I ordered from this Etsy shop.

I added 1×3-inch pine boards¬†on the left and right sides of the coat racks. I also added a 1×3-inch board on the bottom to serve as a baseboard.

Garage-pegboard-coat-rack

All the boards I used for this were scrap pieces I already had on hand. (Major thrifty points scored here!)

I ripped a piece of scrap plywood for both the shelf and the board above the top coat rack using my new favorite tool, the¬†Ryobi¬ģ 10-inch portable table saw.¬†I’m happy to report no fingers were lost in the process. ūüôā

Using-Ryobi-table-saw

I made my own shelf brackets out of the remainder of the scrap plywood. These I cut out on my miter saw.

Plywood-corbel

I used a piece of leftover window/door casing for the decorative trim below the shelf.

To hide the unsightly, raw edges of the plywood (and the screws in the shelf brackets), I ironed on a strip of birch veneer.

Iron-on-birch-veneer

Birch-veneer-over-plywood

Next, I’ll sand the rough spots, caulk and level all the holes, and prime and paint. I’m hoping to share the finished project with you¬†next week.

The coolest part of this whole thing has been the fact that I did it all.by.myself from start to finish, without asking for any help or advice. Yesssss!!!

Special thanks to Ryobi for providing me with the table saw necessary to complete this coat rack. As always, all opinions, projects, and blood, sweat and tears are 100-percent mine.